OUGD501 - Lecture - The Meaning of Style
- Form of resistance/rebellion
- Challenges mainstream
- symbolic challenge
- start as challenges - get sucked into mainstream 'the system' find ways to put back into conventions - tragedy of subculture
- incorporation
- ideological form
- commodity form
- turned against - was edgy/challenging now liquidised and made into a joke, weird, gentle thing
- after war - no uniforms/conscriptions
- music coming from America
- 'new teenagers'
- teddyboys - pionerring, made it okay for men to take pride in their hair etc, from Bill Hayley. Subverting it, fuck up the class system
- no money/education - can work your music/appearance
- Rockers- at same time as teddy boys. Based on bikes and fighting. Generation gap
- Media was fundamental to subculture - picking up new 'sensation' fear aspect is useful to administration
Mods vs Rockers
Rockers
SkinHeads
Punks
Teddy boys
Essence is they are elitist - exploiting this expression
All they've got is the clothes on their backs- can stand out by their appearance
- Stylists/Modernists - interested in jazz, taken from Italian films and the idea of 'cool'
- Finding your tribe from style - 1966 drug culture
- Ready, Steady, Go (Tv programme?)
- accurate representations of your culture is rejected as it is diluted
- Psychedelic side of the MODs, became hippies - other side becomes skin heads
- New Wave style
- Fred Perry
- Multi cultural England - huge impact
- Rude boy culture - completely anti mainstream - narrow black trousers with white socks
- Mix english elements and west indians - skinheads
- younger brothers of MODs
- Millitent, working class
- Hardly anyone knew about them
- Very cool
- Brought black and white together
- Against the height of fashion - 'swinging London'
- saying we are proud to be working class
- skinhead girl attacks, work in gangs
Media caught on - over by 1970s. Skin Head revival who were racist - nothing to do with the style - just a uniform to look intimidating. Very small group - media blurred out of population
- Soulboys - Northern soul boys
- Heart of Wigan
- Enthusiastic about black music - very rare records, all about having the records the next guy didn't have. All about going out, dressing up and dancing
- Black kids vs white kids, divided fashion
- Southern soulboy vs Northern
- Chris Hill & Foggy in Essex
- 'Club Culture' came about in 70s - Soul was left to it
- Punk came out in 70s repression
- Want for anarchy
- Post modernist ideas, made from bits together of other sub cultures
- No one defined look to punk, no one looked liked each other
- women punk band - The Slits
- Feminist ideas (hippie ideas) came out again from punk
- Reggae vs Punk - both saying something together
- Sex pistols swear on tv, media slam punk - afte it was pretty much finished, blown out of proportion, made into a pantomime
- Punk and Reggae together - Ghost Town
- Two Tone, monochrome culture - lasted 1 1/2 year
- 1980s, sportswear came out of footballers, parties and drugs ended that
- Rave Culture
- Same as hippies relies on sound, light and atmosphere
- Ecstacy
- Acid House
- Became more about musical genres e.g Jungle
- BritPop - last subculture or was it a culture?
- Retro enthusiasms, swinging London/Manchester & MODs
- Back to bands again
- Themes, attitudes in common - wanted to sell millions of records rather than be underground (Posers)
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